名飯部類
享和２(1802)年版・近世後期写
杉野権右衛門著
『名飯部類』は、上下２巻にわたってさまざまな米飯料理の作り方を解説した、いわば“江戸時代ご飯ものレシピ本”です。享和２年(1802)に刊行されましたが、残念ながら現在ではこのとき印刷出版された版本は１冊も残っていません。この岩瀬文庫本のように版本を手書きで書き写した転写本が、岩瀬文庫のほか国立国会図書館と東京都立中央図書館と、わずかに３点伝わっているのみです。
著者の杉野権兵衛は江戸時代後期の京都の医者ですが、この『名飯部類』の他にも『新撰(しんせん)包丁(ほうちょう)梯(かけはし)』『鮓(すし)飯(めし)秘抄(ひしょう)』などを著しており、料理への造詣も深かったと見えます。本書巻頭の例言の中にもそのさまはうかがわれ、調理法や合わせる具材によって適したお米の種類やその産地まで記すなど、なみなみならぬこだわりが感じられます。
本文は２巻にわかれています。上巻は尋常飯(ただごとめし)の部・諸菽飯(まめめし)の部・菜蔬飯(なめし)の部・染汁飯(そめめし)の部・調魚飯(うおめし)の部・烹鳥飯(とりめし)の部・名品飯(めいはん)の部と、ご飯を炊くときに加える具材によって分けた８７品のメニューが紹介されています。下巻は雑炊(ぞうすい)の部・糜粥(かゆ)の部・鮓(すし)の部・完魚鮓(まるずし)の部と、調理法別に分けた６２品の作り方が掲載されています。
せっかくですから、何かひとつレシピをご紹介しましょう。
「調魚飯(うおめし)の部」より、この時期美味しいイワシを使った「鰮魚飯(いわしめし)」はいかがでしょうか。
まず新鮮なイワシを水洗いして鱗をとり、再びよく水洗いします。次にご飯をいつもどおり炊き、火を止める直前にご飯に穴をいくつもあけて、頭を上にしたイワシを差し込みます。ご飯とイワシをよく蒸らしたのち、イワシの頭を指でつまんで引っ張り、骨とはらわたを一緒に取り除きます。そののち、イワシの身とご飯をよく混ぜ合わせ、お茶碗に盛り、だし汁と加薬をかけて召し上がれ。なお、作者によれば、イワシは丹後産の金太郎イワシがお勧めだそうです。加薬はネギ・青海苔・唐辛子・おろし大根・柚子などをお好みで。またかけ汁を薄めのお味噌汁にして、刻みネギを加えても美味しいとのことです。どうぞお試しください。
Categories of Delicious Meals
Published : The 2nd year of Kyowa (1802) ・ copied late modern times
Writer: Gonbei Sugino
“Categories of Delicious Meals” explains how to make various boiled rice dishes in two volumes. In other words, it is a recipe book of rice in the Edo era. It was published in the 2nd year of Kyowa (1802). Unfortunately, there aren’t any copies of the original printing left. This book at Iwase Bunko Library is a handwritten transcription and including this one and also one at the National Diet Library and the Tokyo Metropolitan Central Library, there are only three left.
The writer Gonbei Sugino was a doctor who lived in Kyoto in the latter half of the Edo era. Along with this “Categories of Delicious Meals”, he also wrote “A Bridge from Your Newly Chosen Kitchen Knife”, “Secrets of Fish Pickled in Salt” and others. He seems to have a deep knowledge of cooking. It’s understood from the explanatory notes of the first page of this book. The way to cook, what kind of rice is a suitable match for ingredients, where the rice was produced and other points are written. It’s clear he was particular about food.
The text is divided into two volumes. The first volume contains a section on ordinary rice, a section on beans, a section on greens, a section on making colored rice, a section on fish, a section on poultry and a section on specialty dishes. 87 menus for adding ingredients when steaming rice are introduced. The second volume contains a section on porridge, a section on rice porridge, a section on pickled rice and a section on whole fish pickled in salt. 62 menus separated by cooking method are introduced.
We’ll introduce one of the recipes. This is from the section on fish. How about a sardine meal as this is the perfect season for delicious sardines?
First, wash fresh sardines and remove the scales. Then wash them again thoroughly. Next, cook the rice as usual. Just before extinguishing the fire, make some pockets and insert the sardines face up. After steaming the rice and sardines well, pick the head of the sardines with your fingers and pull them out. The bones and entrails are removed together. Afterwards, mix the rice and sardines well. Serve it in a bowl and add a broth and spices. It’s ready. According to the author, as for the sardine, the Kintaro sardine from Tango is recommended. For the spice add a leek, green laver, a red pepper, grated Japanese radish, a citron and others as you like. For the soup, thin miso soup with leek is said to be delicious. Please, try it.
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