＜女子風俗＞化粧秘伝
文化10 (1813)年版
佐山半七丸著･速水春暁斎画
この『＜女子風俗＞化粧秘伝（おなごふうぞくけわいひでん）』は“江戸時代ビューティ雑誌”ともいうべき、女性のお化粧・髪形・着こなし・美容法などについての解説書です。著者はさやま佐山はんしちまる半七丸、挿絵ははやみ速水しゅん春ぎょう暁さい斎、文化１０（１８１３）年に刊行されました。いかにも女性向けの本といった感じの、千鳥の型押しをほどこした薄いピンクの表紙、すみれ色のとじ糸という、愛らしい装丁です。
３巻・７部構成にわかれ、第１部「顔面の部」では美肌づくりと欠点カバーのメイク術、第２部「手足の部」では手足を細くなよやかに見せる方法、第3部「髪の部」ではヘアスタイルとヘアケア、第4部「化粧の部」では様々なお化粧テクニック、第５部「かっこう恰好の部」ではメイクと髪型のコーディネイト、第6部「かたちづくり容儀の部」ではスタイルよく見せる着こなし、第7部「みだしなみ身嗜の部」ではボディケアと、現代女性もおおいに関心を寄せそうな内容が、それぞれ微に入り細にわたり詳しく解説されています。
たとえばお化粧のテクニックのひとつ、「低き鼻を高う見せるしよう伝」。全体的におしろいを薄めに塗り、鼻のきわはさらに薄く塗ります。そして鼻筋にはぐっと濃い目におしろいを塗るようにとあります。こうすると鼻筋だけがひときわ白く浮き立って見えますね。色の暗いところには影ができ、白いところは光を反射して飛び出して見えるという視覚効果を利用して、鼻筋をすうっと高く見せようというわけです。このテクニックは現代のメイクアップアーティストも使っているやり方と、原理はまったく同じです。
このようにさまざまなテクニックを、図解入りで詳しく説明しています。つり目やタレ目を補正するメイクや、背の低い人がすらっと見える襟の抜き方、美白パックの作り方から太い足をほっそりさせるマッサージ法などなど、至れり尽くせりです。作者は前書きで「どんな容貌でも、この本の通りにすればたちまち美人にしてみせる」と豪語しています。
江戸時代の女性が真剣な顔つきでこの本とにらめっこしている様が目に浮かびます。
Make-up Secrets: Women’s Fashions
Printed in 10th year of Bunka (1813)
Author: Sayama Hanshichimaru
Illustrator: Hayami Shungyōsai
This text, called Make-up Secrets: Women’s Fashions, should really be called an “Edo Period Beauty Magazine” because it includes make-up, hairstyles, kimono tips, and beauty tips. Printed in 10th year of Bunka (1813) it was written by Sayama Hanshichimaru and illustrated by Hayami Shungyōsai. As it was clearly written for women, even the binding is attractive. The light pink cover is embossed with small plovers and the binding string is violet.
Composed of three volumes and seven parts, the first part deals with “facial tips” and describes how to cultivate beautiful skin and hide blemishes. The second part, “hand and feet tips,” describes how to make hands and feet appear slim and supple. The third part, “hair tips,” deals with hair care, the fourth part, “makeup tips,” introduces various makeup techniques, the fifth part, “style tips,” describes how to create your own personal style by coordinating hair and makeup. The sixth part, “fashion tips” teaches how to create a stylish image using various kimono and the seventh section, “hygiene tips,” discusses personal grooming. Each of these sections would be found in a modern women’s magazine and each section is exceptionally detailed.
For example, one makeup technique described is “how to make a flat nose look taller.” First, use light colored foundation sparingly across the whole face, and especially sparingly along the sides of the nose, then fairly liberally on the bridge of the nose. By doing this, the bridge of the nose seems to float above the other parts of the face. By using darker colors to create shadow and lighter colors to create brightness, this creates the effect that the bridge of the nose seems to pop out from the rest of the face. The principle behind this technique is the same as effects still used by makeup artists today.
Many more techniques are introduced using pictures to illustrate the tips. For example, how to correct almond eyes or drooping eyes, how to fix a collar to make a short person seem taller, how to create skin whitening packs, how to massage feet to make them seem thinner, and more techniques are introduced. In the introduction to the book the author boasts, “No matter the face, if you follow these techniques you will be beautiful.” You can almost imagine Edo women scrutinizing these pages with intent faces.
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